I remember cooking my first few Thanksgiving dinners--they weren't much fun. Thinking the dishes should be served fresh and piping hot, I timed it so I could carve the turkey, make the gravy, mash the potatoes, cook the vegetables and serve up the first-course soup at the absolute last minute.
There were lots of helping hands, of course, but the kitchen was a train wreck. We readied the dishes ER-style, then rushed them off to the dining room. Meanwhile, back in the kitchen, there wasn't a single clear spot to set dirty plates and glasses.
Over time, I watched experienced cooks pull off this elaborate meal. One relative's solution was to roast and carve the turkey a couple of days ahead, then warm it up - ditto the potatoes and gravy. Although I admired her spotless kitchen, I didn't especially like eating leftovers. I wanted an irresistible, memorable Thanksgiving dinner, but I also wanted a sane, orderly kitchen. Over the years, I've developed a first-rate, do-ahead menu. Here's how:
I roast two small turkeys instead of one big one. We all like the idea of someone carving the turkey at the table, but here's the reality: Most people don't know how. You're gonna get turkey juices all over that nice white tablecloth, while the side dishes turn tepid. So carve one in the kitchen and use the second one for display.
Both turkeys get an overnight soaking in a brine of salt and sugar. The salt water cleanses the birds, seasons them and makes them juicy; the sugar helps them brown nicely.
Roast the first turkey early in the day. Because this one already will be carved and on the platter by dinner, looks don't matter. Enlist a strong person to cut out the bird's back and flatten the turkey, so it roasts nearly twice as fast. After roasting, let the bird rest up to an hour to firm up the meat, then carve. Close to serving, gently heat the sliced turkey on a covered ovenproof serving platter, or, if you want to pass the platter, warm the turkey on a cookie sheet, then transfer it to a platter.
The second turkey is strictly for show, seconds and leftovers. I recommend using a V-shaped rack in your roaster. (You can find one for about $12 in a kitchenware store.) Roast it early enough so there's time to make the gravy before the dinner rush. Start the turkey breast-side down. Halfway through roasting, turn it breast-side up. That way, the breast stays tender and juicy. (Flipping the turkey is a critical step. Don't omit it, or the breast will overcook.)
On to the side dishes:
Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes are very do-ahead. If you find yourself in a pre-feast frenzy, skip spooning them back into the sweet potato cups and just warm the puree and serve it as is.
Mashed potatoes can be made almost completely ahead. Do nearly everything - boil, peel and mash; stir in milk and salt - up to two days ahead. Before serving, reheat. Adding butter at the last minute makes them taste freshly mashed.
Green Beans With Mustard Cream Sauce and Toasted Almonds is my answer to classic green bean casserole. The vegetables and sauce can be made in the morning. Before serving, heat them together and sprinkle with almonds.
A Thanksgiving feast that's both do-ahead and delicious. Who says you can't have it all?
Copyright 2004 USA Weekend and columnist Pam Anderson. All rights reserved.
What's this?