Making Risotto

If it's called risotto, it must begin with the rice. Classically, Carnaroli or Arborio rice is used. Short and plump, they are high in starch and able to absorb quite a bit of liquid without becoming mushy. But don't get too mired in the details of the rice. Any small, starchy grain, be it rice, pearl barley, spelt, or farro--even orzo pasta--can be cooked risotto-style for delicious results.

Rice is often cooked with twice as much liquid as rice. Not so with risotto. Because it's cooked uncovered on the stovetop, much more liquid evaporates. Plan on about three times as much liquid here. And that liquid should be stock of some sort. Homemade chicken stock is the staple in restaurants, but at home you can use whatever stock you prefer--chicken, beef, vegetable, or seafood--as long as it adds good flavor and matches the ingredients you're putting in the risotto. Canned stock is perfectly acceptable, by the way. Just watch the salt--it can become overpowering as the liquid evaporates. Choose low-sodium broth when possible.

The stock is your first base of flavor. Heat it up in a saucepan, as a warm stock will cook into the risotto more quickly and evenly. While that's heating up, sauté onions or shallots in a heavy bottomed pan. After those aromatics have softened, add the rice and "toast" it in the pan. You'll know it's ready when the rice turns translucent at the edges. If the recipe calls for any wine, add it now to continue building the flavor. The slight acidity of a Sauvignon Blanc blends wonderfully in a risotto.

Though you can't just leave risotto on the stove and forget about it, the admonitions about stirring constantly are often overstated. Add the stock a little at a time--1/2 cup or about a ladleful--and only add more stock when it is absorbed into the risotto. Keep the burner just high enough to barely simmer the stock and risotto. You must pay attention, and stir it more than occasionally, but you don't have to be a slave to the stovetop. Take the time to prep your next ingredients, such as grated parmesan or anything else you're adding to the dish, between bouts of stirring. The risotto is done when it's just al dente--firm but not crunchy to the tooth. It should be fluid rather than a solid scoopful when you serve it; you want it to "shimmer" a little in the bowl. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and anything else that strikes your fancy--prosciutto, cooked shrimp, steamed vegetable, sautéed mushrooms, or chicken. Stir in a pat of butter for extra richness. Looked at as a technique rather than a chore, a good risotto opens up endless variety to your meals.